Ok, technically it’s Tara’s mother’s mother’s motherland, but after spending the last few weeks exploring some of the kids’ German heritage we knew we couldn’t skip a trip to Poland with the kiddos coming in at a strong 12.5% Polish.

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We took our first night train of the trip and arrived into Krakow at sunrise (also our first of the trip…yes, we’ve been sleeping in a bit) on our way to Zakopane.

On paper Zakopane looks like a relatively sleepy town at the base of Tatras National Park in southern Poland. In reality however, Zakopane is NOT a secret. The area is exceptionally beautiful, with easy access to almost 400 miles of hiking and biking trails throughout the national park…and as it turns out folks from Poland and the surrounding regions flock to Zakopane in the summer.

So we decided to catch an early dinner at Cristina Ristorante for some incredible gourmet salads, wood-fired pizzas and handmade lasagna. I know, you’re thinking total over-sell on the “incredible gourmet salads” but do not miss the Insalata Cristina (with grilled pears, peaches and gorgonzola) and Insalata Romana. Thanks to a well-timed food coma we got plenty of rest and were ready for our day in the mountains.

Just over two miles into our hike we arrived in Gasiennicowa Valley and finally caught our first glimpse of the peak we’d been marching towards. Off in the distance (in the middle of some mountain showers) were two triangular peaks, the lower Karb Pass and behind it our target, Koscielec summit.

After another 30 minutes of hiking through the valley we arrived at Czarny Staw (Black Pond)…and then the real climbing began.

Halfway up and Caden is still a clown…

A few hundred vertical feet later…

We were greeted at the top of Karb Pass with 35 mile/hour winds and decided we’d have to catch the Koscielec summit on our next go-round. So for us it was up one side of the pass and down the other…and the kids loved it!

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Back in Gasiennicowa Valley the sun had arrived and capped off our amazing 12 mile hike through Tatras National Park.

Despite the fact that we were all a bit slow and sore after our visit to Zakopane, we were happy to make our way back to Krakow. Our Airbnb was right in the heart of the city and just a short walk to so many great places; Old Town Square, Kazimierz (Jewish Quarter), Wisla Riverfront, Wawel Royal Castle and the Krakow Pinball Museum (yes, I’m serious).

At this point in our trip through Europe I can honestly say we’ve seen lots (and lots) of “Old Town Squares”, but Krakow’s is something special.

Krakow’s main square dates back to the 13th century and is one of the largest medieval town squares in Europe. No matter what you’re looking for you’ll likely find it here. With countless restaurants, shops, pubs, street performers and open-air markets, this is without a doubt one of the best places on the planet to sit, relax and watch the day go by.

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Our final day in Krakow was Tara’s birthday which we made sure to celebrate appropriately…with food and beer! If you’re ever in Krakow and are a fan of Middle Eastern food, do not miss Hamsa. Tara & I ordered the Shakshouka (pic on the left) which was outstanding…and as for Caden, he took down their monstrous Reuben.

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Krakow Illusion Museum

While in Krakow I took a day trip to visit Auschwitz-Birkenau. I’d been debating over the past few days whether I would mention the visit, and honestly I’m still struggling with the decision. Ever since we knew we would be visiting Eastern Europe as part of our journey, Tara & I had been weighing whether or not we would expose the kids directly to this painful scar on humanity. Ultimately we decided it wasn’t the right time, which after visiting for myself I’m exceptionally thankful for.

A visit to Auschwitz-Birkenau (as I would imagine with any other concentration camp) is shocking. The stories, images and grief are overwhelming and impossible to comprehend.

The road to Auschwitz was built by hate, but paved with indifference.

Ian Kershaw